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    Fish Shack restaurant in La Punta, Puerto Escondido
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    Food & Dining

    The Best Places to Eat Like A Local in Puerto Escondido

    December 10, 202415 min read

    If you scroll through Instagram, Puerto Escondido looks like an endless parade of smoothie bowls, açai, and avocado toast served in aesthetically pleasing cafes in La Punta. And while there is nothing wrong with a good cold brew coffee, sticking strictly to the tourist hubs of Zicatela and La Punta means paying a "gentrifiers tax"—New York prices for food that, quite frankly, you could find in Brooklyn or Los Angeles.

    But you didn't fly all the way to the Oaxacan coast to eat a burger, did you?

    Oaxaca is widely considered the gastronomic capital of Mexico. It is a land of complex moles, stringy quesillo, and corn dough processed with ancient techniques. To find the soul of Puerto Escondido's food scene, you have to leave the dirt roads of La Punta and head up the hill. You need to go where the taxi drivers, the surfers, and the grandmothers eat.

    This guide is your roadmap to the plastic chairs, the smoky grills, and the crowded stalls. Here is how to eat like a true local in Puerto Escondido.

    The Heart of the City: Mercado Benito JuĂĄrez

    If you want to understand how locals eat, you must start at the source. Located in the center of town (Centro), Mercado Benito JuĂĄrez is a sensory overload in the best possible way. It is a maze of hanging meats, piles of dried chilies, and the distinct aroma of grilled tortillas.

    Skip the restaurants with English menus and head straight for the comedores—the community dining halls inside the market.

    What to Order:

    Empanadas de Amarillo at Antojitos Regionales Las Juquileñas: Forget the baked Argentine empanadas you might know. In Oaxaca, an empanada is a large corn tortilla folded over a filling and toasted on a comal. At Las Juquileñas, order the Mole Amarillo. It's a yellow mole sauce with chicken and fresh herbs (hoja santa) that offers a subtle, earthy spice. It is widely considered one of the best traditional bites in town.

    The Juice Section: You will see stalls stacked high with oranges, carrots, and pineapples. For the price of a small coffee in Zicatela, you can get a liter of freshly squeezed juice. It's the ultimate hydration hack for the humid coastal weather.

    The Tlayuda: It's Not a Pizza

    One of the biggest misconceptions travelers have is calling the Tlayuda a "Mexican Pizza." While it looks similar—a large, round base with toppings—the Tlayuda is a beast of its own, and it is the crown jewel of Oaxacan street food.

    A proper Tlayuda starts with a massive, semi-dried tortilla that is toasted on a charcoal grill until it's crispy but still chewy. It is slathered with asiento (unrefined pork lard), covered in a bean paste, and topped with cabbage, avocado, and the famous Oaxacan quesillo (string cheese).

    Where to Find the Best:

    While many tourist restaurants serve them, locals eat Tlayudas at night, usually at family-run cenadurias.

    Cenaduria Las Juquileñas: Often cited by locals as the gold standard, this spot in Centro offers portions that can easily feed two people. The atmosphere is loud, bright, and unapologetically Mexican.

    Nana Pancha: If you want a slight twist on the classic, check out Nana Pancha. They offer a Lengua (Beef Tongue) Tlayuda that is tender, rich, and deeply flavorful. It's a texturally superior meat that pairs perfectly with the crunch of the tortilla.

    Seafood Shacks: No White Tablecloths Required

    You are on the Pacific Coast. The fish was likely swimming in the ocean this morning. Locals know that the best seafood isn't found in places with mood lighting; it's found in shacks where the focus is entirely on the freshness of the catch.

    The Legend: Smoked Fish Tacos El Viejo

    This is a non-negotiable stop. El Viejo has been an institution since 2000. While the founder passed away in 2021, his family continues the legacy. They use a specific smoking technique that is rare in the area.

    The Dish: The smoked fish taco. The smoke is subtle—it enhances the fish rather than masking it. Served with fresh avocado, crisp lettuce, and house-made crema, it costs a fraction of what you'd pay near the beach.

    Local Intel: They close early (usually by late afternoon or when they run out), so make this a lunch stop, not dinner.

    The "Feet in the Sand" Experience: Los GastronĂłmicos

    If you want to eat on the beach without the beach club prices, head to Puerto Angelito. This bay is popular with Mexican families. Los GastronĂłmicos is a cooperative-style restaurant right on the sand.

    The Vibe: Plastic tables, wandering musicians, and families sharing massive platters.

    The Order: Pescado a la Diabla (Fish in spicy devil sauce) or Garlic Shrimp. The rice here is famously fluffy, and you can leave your table to take a dip in the ocean while you wait for your food.

    The Coconut King: Pepe's Fish Tacos

    Pepe is a local legend who was pushed out of La Punta due to rising rents—a classic gentrification story. He now operates in a spot that requires a bit more effort to find, but his loyal following has gone with him.

    Why go? Pepe lived in Hawaii for years, and he brought back a technique for Coconut Shrimp Tacos that is unrivaled. These are huge tacos—almost burrito-sized—crispy, sweet, and savory.

    The Sauce: His salsa macha and smoky mayo are spicy, so proceed with caution if you aren't used to heat.

    Ready to Explore Puerto's Coastline?

    After sampling the best seafood in town, discover the stunning beaches and hidden bays on one of our boat tours.

    The Taco Pilgrimage: Pastor, Asada, and the Late Night

    In Puerto Escondido, there are "Gringo Tacos" (flour tortillas, mild salsa, expensive), and then there are real tacos. Real tacos are eaten standing up or on a stool, usually after the sun goes down.

    The Al Pastor Authority: Taqueria Los Molcas

    For over 50 years, Los Molcas has been feeding Puerto Escondido. This is where you go for Tacos Al Pastor (spit-roasted pork).

    The Method: Watch the taquero slice the meat from the spinning trompo (vertical spit), catching a slice of pineapple in mid-air to land in your taco.

    The Menu: Beyond pastor, they offer excellent vegan options involving mushrooms and nopales (cactus), proving that traditional spots can adapt without losing their soul.

    The Hidden Gem: Taqueria La Playita

    Located behind the airport, Taqueria La Playita is a spot you will almost never find on a "Top 10" tourist list, which is exactly why it's on this one.

    The Crowd: Strictly locals.

    The Food: Traditional Carnitas and Suadero. The meat is slow-cooked in its own fat until it is impossibly tender, then crisped up on the griddle. It is simple, unpretentious, and perfect.

    The Late Night Hero: Taqueria Uno y Mas

    Located in Brisas de Zicatela, Taqueria Uno y Mas stays open until 2:00 AM. If you've been out dancing or having drinks, this is your sanctuary.

    The Draw: A proper charcoal grill and a massive trompo. The Al Pastor here is aggressive on the marinade, salty and sweet, designed to cut through the mezcal you've likely been drinking.

    The "Worth It" List: Local Favorites & Elevated Dining

    Eating like a local doesn't always mean eating on the street. Sometimes it means knowing exactly which sit-down restaurants are worth the wait and the price tag. While we love a 20-peso taco, there is a special place in our hearts for the spots that combine incredible atmosphere with top-tier culinary execution.

    If you are looking for a proper dinner date, a sunset cocktail, or just a break from standing on the curb to eat, these are the five essential stops that even the most hardened locals swear by.

    1. The Fish Shack (La Punta)

    Tucked away down a sweet little alleyway in La Punta, the Fish Shack is proof that you don't need a massive venue to make a massive impact. This isn't a "shack" in the rundown sense; it's a vibrant, buzzing corridor of flavor. It's widely considered an institution in the La Punta scene, famous for its ability to nail the texture of fried seafood—a skill that is harder than it looks.

    The Vibe: Casual, crowded, and high-energy. You sit at community tables, meaning you might make a new friend while you eat. It's close quarters, but that's part of the charm.

    What to Order: The Grilled Fish Sandwich or the Coconut Shrimp Tacos. The batter is perfectly crispy (think tempura meets Southern fry), and the coconut shrimp is a masterful balance of sweet and savory. If you're feeling bold, pair it with a Michelada—the Fish Shack does a killer version that feels like a meal in itself.

    2. Chicama (La Punta)

    When you need a break from tacos (it happens to the best of us), Chicama is the answer. This is a Peruvian hotspot that brings a different kind of coastal heat to Puerto Escondido. It's one of the most popular restaurants in La Punta for a reason—the vibe is electric, the music is good, and the food is consistently fresh.

    The Vibe: Trendy but welcoming. It's the perfect spot to start a night out.

    What to Order: The Ceviche. Peruvian ceviche differs from Mexican ceviche (typically using larger corn kernels and a distinct leche de tigre citrus marinade), and Chicama executes it flawlessly. Don't leave without trying a Pisco Sour, a frothy, lime-forward cocktail that cuts through the humidity like a knife.

    3. El Nene (Rinconada)

    If you want to escape the backpacker scene of La Punta and the party scene of Zicatela, head to the Rinconada neighborhood. El Nene is a standout here. It recently underwent a renovation, upgrading its space to a beautiful open-air setup with a tall palapa roof and gorgeous lighting. It feels upscale but remains deeply rooted in local hospitality.

    The Vibe: Relaxed and family-friendly. It's a great place to actually hear the conversation at your table.

    What to Order: The Grilled Fish Tacos are the star here, topped with a fresh cabbage slaw that adds the perfect crunch. If you aren't in a taco mood, their sashimi appetizers are incredibly fresh, highlighting the daily catch from the nearby coast.

    4. El EspadĂ­n (Carrizalillo)

    Sometimes, you are paying for the view, and at El EspadĂ­n, the view is worth every single peso. Perched on the cliff overlooking Playa Carrizalillo (arguably the most beautiful bay in Puerto), this restaurant offers the single best sunset vantage point in town.

    The Vibe: Romantic and breathtaking. This is the place to go for your "final night in Puerto" dinner. Watching the sun dip below the horizon while the surfers below catch the last waves of the day is magical.

    What to Order: While the view is the main attraction, the guacamole is top-tier, and their seafood platters are generous. It's the perfect spot for a long, slow dinner as the sky turns purple.

    5. Almoraduz (Rinconada)

    For the true foodies—the ones who watch Chef's Table religiously—Almoraduz is the destination. This is fine dining, Oaxacan style. With a nod from the Michelin Guide, Chefs Quetzalcoatl Zurita and Shalxaly Macias are doing something unique: they are deconstructing traditional Oaxacan ingredients and rebuilding them into modern masterpieces.

    The Vibe: Intimate, sophisticated, and serious about food. This isn't a place to grab a quick bite; it's a place to experience a tasting menu.

    What to Order: The menu changes based on what is in season, but look for their Mole Negro or their Risotto. They use indigenous ingredients you might not recognize, but the staff is wonderful at explaining the history behind every dish. It is a splurge, but it is a culinary education.

    Practical Tips for Dining Locally

    Eating locally requires a slight shift in mindset from the typical resort experience. Here is how to navigate the local food scene like a pro.

    đŸ’” Cash is King

    The best spots—El Viejo, the market stalls, the street carts—do not accept credit cards. Always carry small bills (20s, 50s, and 100 peso notes). Big bills ($500) can be hard for a street vendor to break early in the day.

    Pro Tip: The ATM at the Chedraui supermarket usually has the lowest fees and is more reliable than the ATMs in Zicatela.

    đŸ—Łïž Language Basics

    You don't need to be fluent, but a little effort goes a long way:

    • "Con todo" = With everything (onion, cilantro, salsa).
    • "La cuenta, por favor" = The check, please.
    • "Provecho" = Bon appetit (say this to other diners when you enter or leave a small restaurant; it's polite custom).

    đŸŒ¶ïž Spice Levels

    If a local tells you a salsa is "mild" or "doesn't bite" (no pica), do not trust them implicitly. Test a drop on your hand first. Coastal Oaxaca loves heat.

    Conclusion: The Meal You Will Remember

    Puerto Escondido offers two distinct worlds. You can have the air-conditioned, curated experience that looks great on social media, or you can embrace the heat, the noise, and the flavors of the real Oaxaca.

    The meal you will remember most from this trip won't be the burger you ate while watching the sunset. It will be the smoked fish taco you ate on a plastic stool, surrounded by local families, realizing that the best food in the world doesn't need a white tablecloth—it just needs fresh ingredients and a whole lot of heart.

    Ready to taste the real Puerto? Save this guide for your next trip. And if you've already been, tell us: Are you Team Tlayuda or Team Taco?

    Experience More of Puerto Escondido

    Now that you know where to eat, let us show you the best things to do. From sunset horseback rides to turtle releases, we've got you covered.

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